Most Camellias can be propagated from leaf bud cuttings of current season's growth that has begun to firm (ie. semi-ripe cuttings, where the base of the cutting is quite hard and the tip of the cutting is still actively growing and thus still quite soft). These cuttings include the leaf and axillary bud or node. This allows for many cuttings to be taken from the same stem. Cuttings are made the same size to allow ease of handling by ensuring most cuttings take root at roughly the same time. These are placed into the prop. mix after each cutting has been dabbed in rooting hormone gel, leaving the bud on the surface of the mix. Flower buds are pinched out. With bottom heat, rooting usually takes 6-12 weeks.
We also took some leaf bud cuttings from a potted Ficus elastica cultivar. Using secateurs, a cut was made straight across a stem just above a node - a rule of thumb is about the distance of the width of the stem itself - and about 2.5cm below the same node. Keeping the waxy side of the leaf outermost, the leaf was rolled to form a cylinder, secured with a rubber band and placed into the prop. mix after a dab in semi-hardwood rooting hormone gel. The lead node should sit on the surface of the mix. The cutting can be supported with a small cane through the rolled leaf as shown above. This is kept in the misting house under humid conditons until rooted.
Larger leaf Camellia varieties can be handled in a similar manner as shown below :
Ref : RHS propagating plants, pg. 95, 120
Excellent Ray, good coverage of what was completed.
ReplyDeleteThis has been most helpful in getting my head round what actually is the proccess of leaf bud cutting for my level 2 rhs course...thank you
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